Showing posts with label dexter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dexter. Show all posts
Sunday, 17 May 2015

Drumanilra Farm: round the world now organic in Boyle

On the 15th May, Justina and Liam Gavin Drumanilra farm, just outside Boyle in County Roscommon, will became full symbol organic. I spoke with Liam about their set up.

Oliver Moore: Tell me about your background Liam: how did you end up farming organically in Roscommon?

Liam Gavin:  We lived in the fishing village of Brixham Devon for 11 years. My mother is originally is originally from Roscommon, she was born on the farm we’re on now, as was her mother. My father was from Mayo. I’ve lived all over the place - Africa, the UK and Ireland.  Justina is Australian. 

We met at an NGO event in Africa, she was in Uganda, I was in Rwanda at the time. I was working with different organisations, running a logistics company to supply NGOS like Trocaire, Goal and Oxfam. etc). We imported seeds, agricultural tools and refugee survival kits for distribution in the many Refugee Camps in the area, after the Rwandan massacres of 1994, Justina  was volunteering as a teacher in Uganda, then we worked together in the logistics business.

OM: All a far cry from Roscommon.

LG: True! I used to come here when I was a kid, my uncle didn’t have kids, I used to work on the farm, and I really loved it. My degree was in Agriculture from UCD. I veered away from agriculture directly, and more into agri business and marketing, running a self-catering holiday property agency called Blue Chip Holidays with Justina’s family, and also a chain of coffee shops in Dublin.
In 2004, when Justina was pregnant with our first child, my Uncle told me he’d be leaving us the farm. We’d visited a lot, and realised then this is what we wanted. I wanted to come back here, where I ’d spent so many summers. This is what I was connected to. We moved back in 2012.

OM: So tell me about the goodlife.

LG: We’re in-conversion to organic with 40 acres on the shores of Lough Key, specialising in rare and heritage breed pigs, cattle, sheep and poultry.

We stock Dexters – a bull, 9 breeding females, 7 calves and one more to come, along with four calves from last year.  There’s Berkshire and Tamworth sows as well as about fifty Jacob and Shetland sheep.

Where we are is not considered great land, historically there would be smaller breeds on this land, and the smaller native breeds suit this land. The cattle I see around now are massive. Dexters are easier on the land, they don’t ruin it even when they are out all winter.

OM: How was the farm when you arrived?

LG: The farm was very overgrown.  We’d to do extensive work cutting back hedges, clearing old field drains and putting in new ones.  I did a chainsaw qualification, fenced and got the place under control.

We’ve cleared a lot with the pigs. So we’ve been ploughing  each field with the pigs, harrowed with disc harrow, then the grass harrow then we planted seed. After that the fields were ready. We expect to do this every five to six years, rotating the cattle, sheep and poultry.  

OM: How have you found adjusting to farming?

LG: The UCD degree seems like ancient history now! I’m still learning, the neighbours are great family friends and they’ve helped a lot. The older guys have given me great advice. I’ve learned a lot, it’s not been easy but I love the way of life. Lambing and calving is tough, up at 4am for 4-5 weeks. 
It’s the practical things, breech births and the like, that you have to learn how to manage. I had to look up how to artificially inseminate a pig on the internet.

OM: An unusual one to google.

LG: Indeed! 

OM: Where is your meat slaughtered?

LG: Stanley Taylor's abattoir, which is just 15 minutes away. He’s inspected by the Organic Trust, and does the sheep and cattle for us. For the pigs, we use Gerry Burden in Grange outside Sligo.

OM: You sell your meat direct. How and why did you go this route?

LG: Since 2014, we have been experimenting with routes to market for our beef, pork and lamb. From the outset our vision has been to sell direct to the consumer.  This brings its own challenges.  There is a lot of work in attempting to cover off all the links in the "farm to fork" food chain yourself!

In the Summer of 2014, we launched our bespoke "Shepherd's Hut" style catering trailer to tour shows and festivals. The Shepherd's Hut is also available for large private functions. We serve heritage breed burgers and hot-dogs, handmade from Dexter Beef and Tamworth pork produced here on the farm, on artisan breads and with locally grown salads. 

The idea has always been to work with others. We’d like to help provide a marketing opportunity for other organic farmers with product to sell. 



Last Summer we toured with our catering trailer and won a Mckenna Food Guide award at the Electric Picnic.We have been selling our produce at the local farmers' market on Saturdays too.

OM:Then you upgraded to a shop?

LG: In stages! At Christmas we opened a small "pop-up shop" in Boyle, selling turkeys, traditional dry cure Christmas hams, sausages, bacon rashers and Dexter beef.  We also had a small deli offer, where we show-cased local artisan cheeses, breads, locally grown organic veg and provided a space for local crafts people to sell and exhibit. 

On April 1st, we opened our new Drumanilra Farm Shop. Its on Bridge Street, Boyle, the nearest town to the farm. We sell organic meat from our own farm and meat sourced from other local organic producers. We also stock a deli range including Irish farmhouse cheeses, olives, fresh baked breads, pastries, salamis, balsamic vinegar and so on.

As well as our own meat, we stock John Cullen's beef from Frenchpark, lamb from Robbie Forbe's organic farm near Lough Rea and of course our own Drumanilra Farm pork sausages and traditional dry cure bacon.

We take delivery of organic chickens from Margaret McDonnell in the Curragh, on a Wednesday, together with organic veg from Kinneden Organics in nearby Dromod.
Drumanilra farm shop is opened Monday to Saturday, 9 to 6. (No website yet, but find them of facebook)
Sunday, 18 December 2011

THE DINGLE DEXTER


(note: organic job opp at the end of piece!)

If you are visiting Santa at Killarney Farmers' Market, or if you are lucky enough to eat in the Killarney Park Hotel on Christmas day, the chances are you will encounter organic Dexter meat from Dingle.

In fact, the 'Dexter Dingle' itself will be at the Killarney market – a van modeled on the railway carriages that brought cattle along the Dingle Tralee railway line once a month in the 50s, after the line itself was closed to passengers.

Kerry County Vet Paddy Fenton is one of the six Dexter farmers involved in a profit share with this this venture, which received supports from the Department's Organic Unit.

All are organic or in conversion: Sean Dineen, Helen Mcguire and Steve Collins are all based in the south west, while two others are from further afield - John O Neill of Kilkenny and Diarmuid O Liatháin of Westmeath.

Fenton's Ventry farm is, despite the altitude of most of the Dingle Peninsula “good fattening land. We are a bit exposed to south westerlies. There is some good land along here, we have mountain but the bit between the mountain and sea is good.”

Dexters most likely are derived from the Black Irish Cattle of the Celts. According to the Dexter Cattle Society, an 1845 report states that a Tipperary-based “Mr Dexter had produced his curious breed by selection from the best of the hardy mountain cattle of the area, and to have succeeded to a very high degree”.

What Dexters loose in size – they are, literally, hip height - they more than make up for in numerous other ways. For one thing, their good meat to bone ratio allows for a killing-out percentage of over 56%.

Fenton's 40 diminutive Dexter cows and followers are all out at the moment, as they are hardy animals especially suited to Irish Winters. They also “don't cut up the land” according to Fenton, who also adds that they are every low in inputs.

As well as his home farm, Fenton is involved in a conservation grazing programme on the southern slopes of Mount Brandon, with Geraldine Swanley-Stein of the IT Tralee.

The study investigates the effect of cattle grazing on biodiversity, so a baseline sample of the grasses has been taken already. One of the aims of the initiative is to keep purple moor grass under control while increasing biodiversity through a well managed grazing regime.

Then there is the meat itself. As a selling point, Dexter beef's flavour is something to savour. “the meat has a unique and peculiar taste – its like a strong gamey beef crossed with Venison. Its Ireland's Kobi really”, he claims. The levels of marbling in the meat have also been commented upon by many aficionados.

Indeed, Dexter is the meat of choice for many of the highest end chefs around, featuring as the main course winning dish on the Great British Menu in 2008, and the Northern Irish regional award in 2009.

Initially, the meat was sold at the Dingle farmers' market. Demand was very strong, but margins were not good enough to justify the costs, especially with the small carcass size of the Dexters.

Hot food is where its at, profit-wise. So, “we sold steak sandwiches and beef burgers at the Dingle Food Festival last year, and it went really well. The next step was to bring it on, to add value, and a burger bar was the way to go” Fenton says.

And thus was born the Dingle Dexter railway carriage style catering van, as seen this year at the Listowel Races, Dingle Food Festival and the farmers' market in Killarney. Fenton hopes to return to the Dingle Farmers' Market in April of next year, and is also currently supplying some eateries in Dingle town, including Fenton's restaurant.

What's more, there is a business opportunity for a budding organic entrepreneur: “We're looking for a partner to run the burger van, a committed organic person. We'd like to set them up to run the van on profit share with us.”